Separatists have waged a violent campaign against Indian rule in Muslim-majority Kashmir since 1989.
The region remains a subject of bitter dispute between India and Pakistan
who have fought two of their three wars over it.
Human rights organisations estimate that about 100,000 people have died as a result of the violence since the 1980s
many of them civilians. As a result, fear dominates the streets and few venture out after dusk.
Many find salvation in Sufi shrines to heal the wounds of war - not just in Srinagar, but even in remote areas of the region.